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Ghana’s second-hand clothing trade clashes with EU waste policies

A $29.5M industry hangs in the balance as Ghana’s traders fight EU policies. New research debunks myths about waste—so why the crackdown?

,   and  Administrator
2 min read
In this picture I can see polo t-shirts and I can see cloth in the background.
In this picture I can see polo t-shirts and I can see cloth in the background.

Ghana’s second-hand clothing trade clashes with EU waste policies

A debate over textile waste and second-hand clothing trade has intensified between European policymakers and African traders. The Or Foundation, an advocacy group, pushes for stricter production controls in fashion, while Ghana’s used clothing sector warns against EU export restrictions. New data reveals that far less waste exists in Ghana’s markets than previously claimed by critics.

The second-hand clothing trade in Ghana supports 2.5 million jobs and brought in $29.5 million for the government last year. In 2022, the country imported $164 million worth of used garments, mainly from the UK, China, and Canada. Despite concerns about waste, research by the Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association (GUCDA) found that less than 5% of items at Kantamanto market end up as rubbish.

The Or Foundation, which campaigns for reduced fashion production, has noted a rise in textile waste since 2011, linked to the growth of fast fashion. However, Liz Ricketts from the organisation admits the widely cited 40% waste figure is misleading—it refers to unsold stock, not clothing immediately thrown away. Meanwhile, the EU’s proposed Basel Convention amendment, aimed at restricting toxic waste exports, could unintentionally limit second-hand clothing shipments to Africa. No individual EU countries submitted proposals at the March 20XX Environment Council meeting. Instead, the European Commission, as the EU’s executive body, leads negotiations on international environmental rules. GUCDA opposes the amendment, arguing it would harm Ghana’s economy and the livelihoods of millions working in the trade. A survey at Kantamanto market also found that 64% of shoppers had not seen discarded clothing in public areas.

The dispute highlights the gap between European environmental goals and the economic realities of Ghana’s used clothing sector. If the EU’s Basel Convention amendment passes, it could disrupt a trade worth millions and employ millions. For now, GUCDA’s findings challenge the assumption that second-hand clothing exports overwhelmingly contribute to waste in Africa.

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