Angela Hartnett Returns to London with Cicoria: A Mixed Bag of Flavours and Ambiance
Chef Angela Hartnett has returned to London's dining scene after a 12-year absence, opening Cicoria restaurant and bar at the Royal Opera House. The new venture offers a range of dishes, from cicchetti to secondi, with views over Covent Garden Piazza.
Hartnett, known for her speed and scale in cooking, showcased her skills at the Wilderness festival. At Cicoria, dishes like the vitello tonnato and Guinea fowl agnolotti received praise for their flavour and presentation. However, other dishes such as the Ligurian fish stew and Ox cheek were less distinctive, reminiscent of average pub fare.
The restaurant, located at 20 Queen Street, London W1J 5PP, feels functional and lacks the hedonistic atmosphere associated with Hartnett's previous establishments. The menu is split into cicchetti, anti pasti, primi pasta dishes, and secondi meat and fish. Desserts include a dry tiramisu and a pleasant caramelised Amalfi lemon tart. The terrace offers great views but lacks atmosphere, and the restaurant has a feel similar to a Jamie Oliver establishment, decent but lacking unique charm. Most diners visit between 5 and 7 pm, which guarantees staff jobs but isn't ideal for late-night dining.
Cicoria, Angela Hartnett's first new opening in London in 12 years, offers a mix of flavoursome and average dishes. While the views and decent food draw in customers, the lack of unique atmosphere and late-night dining options may impact its appeal.
